Planting a Lawn Successfully

1. WHEN TO PLANT:
The preferred time to plant a lawn is Oct/Nov. when weeds are at their lowest growth cycle. Also this will allow the root system to develop over the winter in preparation for the hot and dry summer months. In mild coastal areas planting can take place at any time. But some special requirements will have to be met. Spring is a good time to plant lawns if a proper weed control program is first implemented

2. CULTIVATE SOIL/ORGANIC MATERIAL:
Plow, rototill, hand dig or somehow breakup the soil and amend with humus, ground bark, aged sawdust or wood shavings to allow for good root and water penetration of the soil. This operation is the most important part of the whole process if you want a healthy drought tolerant lawn it will need deep roots.

3. PREPLANT WEED CONTROL:
Incorporate fertilizer and level to final grade. Water as per #8 for at least two weeks to germinate any weed seeds. Spray with a contact weed killer (ROUND-UP has proven very effective) following manufacturers instructions carefully. Weeds should be dead within 4 to 5 days. Resume watering one day after spraying for an additional 7 days, If more weeds appear, spray again. Do not pull weeds or cultivate the area after last kill. This will bring unwanted weed seed to the surface.

4. RAKE THE SURFACE SMOOTH:
Lightly rake the surface to break up the crust formed by your watering cycles.

5. SCATTER SEEDS:
Sow at the recommended seeding rate. Sow 1/4 of the seed to the entire area in one application. Follow with the next three applications in different directions. When spreading by hand it may be helpful to add sand or sawdust with the seed mix. For best results use a hand crank operated seed spreader.

6. RAKE SEED INTO THE SURFACE LIGHTLY:
Using a bamboo or fan rake, brush the seed barely under the soil. Roll the surface with an empty lawn roller to set the seed in contact with the soil.

7. MULCH LIGHTLY:
This is optional, though mulching with 1/8th inch of a rich organic soil, sawdust or peat moss will provide shade to new seedlings and help retain moisture.

8. LAWN WATERING:
Water seeds in thoroughly with a fine mist nozzle. Depending on the time of year, the seed bed may take as many as 5 short cycles per day. Germination will occur within the first week for some grasses while others may take as long as 21 days. For this reason: YOU MUST KEEP SEED BED DAMP UNTIL ALL SEED HAS GERMINATED. HOWEVER, DO NOT OVER WATER! Reduce the number of cycles per day to just keep the surface damp. You must remember these water instructions to avoid damage to your crop.

First planting - Water once a day for approximately 10 minutes. You are just trying to get the seed moist so it will germinate. Germination time varies according to seed type and weather conditions.
Once the seed has germinated you will water less often but for a longer period of time. For example, every other day or every third day for 15-20 minutes and then every third or fourth day for 20-30 minutes until the seed has matured. What this does is train the roots to dig deep within the soil to access water and will help the plant to become more drought tolerant.
Once the seed has germinated, maintain a consistent watering schedule depending on current weather conditions. Over-watering, or watering so often that the water does not have the time to soak into the soil creates constant puddling which further cause crop diseases. Watering in the early morning hours is the best time to avoid possible disease and fungus.

9. BEFORE MOWING:
After 3 weeks most of the seed will be germinated and you can cut back on the number of watering cycles. When the grass gets to two or three inches in height. Allow the seed bed to dry out just enough so that you can walk lightly on it without leaving footprints. Roll the new lawn with a water filled lawn roller to set the seedlings firmly in the soil. Mow the lawn with a sharp blade mower set at a 2" cutting height. If you must use a rotary mower, be sure the blade is sharp, as a dull one will pull the shallow rooted new plants out of the soil.

10. FERTILIZE:
This will be a good time to apply more fertilizer. Your new lawn has just been mowed and it needs water. before watering chose the proper type of fertilizer (this depends on the time of year) and broadcast at the rate recommended by the manufacturer. Then water in thoroughly to prevent burning of your new seedlings. Watering cycles should be set to maintain 1 to 2 1/2 inches of water per week, depending on your location, i,e, 1" for coastal areas and 2 1/2" for inner valley areas.

POINTS TO CONSIDER WHEN CHOOSING GRASS SEED
1. Is the area sunny or shady?
2. Is it a high traffic area?
3. How much are you able to water?

TOP FIVE REASONS LAWNS DON'T SUCCEED
1. Seed is buried too deep or not deep enough. Seed to soil contact is important but if you bury your seed too deep you can prevent it from receiving necessary sunlight to germinate.
2. No water. It is important for the seed to receive water during the first few weeks of its life. Tender young seedlings tend to dry out and die if they do not receive enough water.
3. Seeding too soon after applying a pre-emergent. DO NOT seed for at least 90 days after a pre-emergent has been applied to the area. Pre-emergent weed killers are designed to prevent seeds from germinating and can remain in the soil for up to 90 days. Check pre-emergent label for exact time period to wait before seeding.
4. Over-fertilization. Applying too much fertilizer to an area is just as bad, if not worse, than applying too little. Always water after applying fertilizer or you run the risk of burning your plant.
5. Lack of nutrients. It is important to test your soil before you plant and apply recommended nutrients or lime in order to provide a warm, happy environment for your plant.